New Boat & Trade In Check list

The Deck

Fiberglass

Check the thickness of the hull. Hitting the hull with your hand just above the water line in the same place on different boats will give you an idea as to which boats have a thicker construction which is desirable.
Check for bulges, patterns, ripples or odd textures and look to see that color of the hull and deck that were meant to be the same color are exactly the same color and not from different dye lots.
In the bilge and other areas where you can see the inside of the hull, check for white patches or loose fiberglass fibers. The lack of resin is a sign of a poor lay-up.
Are the graphics gel-coat or tape? Tape is much less expensive, does not last as long but is easier to repair.
Nonslip surfaces can be tape or preferably built into the fiberglass deck. The deeper more pronounced the the surface the better the gripping power with sharper angles being better than rounded bubbles.
Walk near the hatch(es). The fiberglass should not creak or flex.
The gas tank should be removable. There must also be access to all fittings and clamps.
Many boats now have the stringers made of fiberglass which is better than wood sealed in fiberglass.

Fittings

A hull is stronger where the holes drilled (such as portholes) are few and far apart.
Also  bronze is preferred  to plastic.
There should be a handle or railing for every passenger to hold on to.

Ladder

The longer the better. At least three steps.

Rub Rail

Should be straight and even.

 Hull

Cleats

The bigger the cleats the better. Compare with those found on other makes of boats of the same boat length.
At least 2 per side under 15' Quantity
All stainless steel
Must be through bolted with preferably a metal backing plate.

Upholstery

Check the thickness of the covering.
Many boat makers have switched from wood to plastic molds for seat frames. Less wood the better.
There should be double stitching.
The seat should be wide enough for the average person. Some claim to be for two people but they really on have room for one person.
The seats should be  ventilated either in the back or bottom to allow moisture to escape.
The seats should be fastened solidly.

Windshield

The angle of the windshield is important. Check for glare especially. The more steep the angle the more prone to glare.
Check the seating position in relation to the windshield and frame with the boat at rest, on plane and getting on plane. Many boats windshields are so low that your eyes might be a frame level making it impossible to sit and steer.
A stainless steel frame is better than aluminum.
Try pushing on the frame. See if it moves. If there is a walkway through windshield. These steps should be integrated. Try going up to the bow and see if the footsteps flex or frame is rock-solid. In fact any area that is made for walking or holding should not creak or flex.
Not often included but small venting side windows are great on very hot days.
Wiper(s) should be included.

Dash

Check the gauge layout to see how convenient are switches and gauges.
There should be room for additional equipment such as GPS, Radar etc. (depending on the size of the boat)
Is there a place to rest you hand beside the shift lever?
Some equipment should be considered standard beside the obvious such as a compass and depthsounder.
Check the back of the dash. Open the panel to see if all wiring is neat and color coded.
All gauges and switches should light up.

Cabin

Mattresses should be at least 4" foam with spring mattresses being even a better choice.
Check the sleeping quarters. A boat rated to sleep four or six might realistically only hold two or three. Sharp low ceilings might also be too claustrophobic for many people especially when they face a wall.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

An all white boat may not look as sporty as the two tone jobs but especially for the first time buyer it is allot easier to repair when you do not have to match special colors.

Brand name items might be of better quality than unbranded versions such as canvas items.

Get dealer references. How long have they been in business. Check out the service facilities and staff.

Warrantee - read it and ask for a Photostat. Compare it to other boat warrantees. Where is the boat to be repaired? At the dealership or a plant a 1000 miles away? Who pays the shipping? >Water test the boat with someone who has owned a boat about that size and type to get their opinion of handling. Hire a marine surveyor (with good references) to give you a written evaluation. Does the boat come with a coast guard kit? It should have every item that is required by law on it before you go out on the water and you should know how to use all equipment. Take a safety course from The Power Squadron as well as a basic CPR course.

Trade-Ins

To determine the realistic price for your used boat:

Call N.A.D.A. (national Automobile Dealer's Association) Boat Appraisal Guide (800-966-6232)
Also ask to look at your banks ABOS Boat Trade-in Bluebook (which they use for boat loans)
Order the BUCNET or N.A.D.A. book.
You can also get an idea of the price of your boat through newspaper ads and the listing on the Boats for Sale internet sites.

Clean your boat and repair at least all minor items. Also change the oil, filter and gas filter. Buff and wax the boat.

Remove all items that will not add any value to the boat. This usually means any item not permanently attached to the boat except for safety items such as PDF's, flares, fire extinguisher, plus lines and fenders.




NOTICE:
All information on this web site is provided as a free service. Under no conditions does it constitute professional advice. No representations are made as to the completeness, accuracy, comprehensiveness or otherwise of the data and information provided.